In my previous post, I mentioned that I am a fan of old man-made structures, particularly those with cultural value. I also have a keen interest in the history and story behind these structures. Because of this, I went on a church-hopping (AKA temple run) tour in Iloilo and witnessed the hallmarks of Catholicism and Hispanic legacy in the province. And since the Lenten season is in the air, I will present to you a list of churches I visited which you might find interesting to visit for Visita Iglesia:
1. San Jose de Placer Church
My first destination was San Jose de Placer Parish Church in Plaza Libertad in Iloilo City proper. Built in 1873 under the leadership of the first Prior of Iloilo and Augustinian priest Father Mauricio Blanco, the San Jose de Placer Church prides itself as the home to Iloilo's Dinagyang Festival held every January of each year.
The church's site is said to be the original location of the first church built in Iloilo City by the Jesuits 260 years before, in the year 1607. The church features Renaissance architecture with a little touch of Hellenic influence evident in its Corinthian pillars lining the way to the altar. The two most prized possessions of the church are the replica of the Sto. Niño de Cebu brought to Iloilo in 1968 and the 400-year old image of Nuestra Señora del Rosario.
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| The church as seen from Plaza Libertad |
Getting there:
Jeepneys going to and from Fort San Pedro passes in front of Plaza Libertad where the church can be visibly seen. It is located near the new city hall of Iloilo and is bounded by Calle de la Rama and Zamora streets.
2. Molo Church
The second stop on my trip was the Parish of St. Anne, more popularly known as Molo Church located in Molo district (Iloilo City has 7 districts). The church was built by the Jesuits in 1831, shortly after their return as they were expelled from all Spanish dominions in 1768 by the order of Carlos III.
I was struck by its Gothic feature particularly in its pointed spires which reminded me somehow of San Sebastian Cathedral's. Gothic style is also exhibited in the interior especially the pulpits, columns, and the altars, especially the retablo.
The parish is also known as a "feminist church" because of the 16 images of female saints that adorn the main aisle.
I learned that since its construction, the Molo Church has faced a number of disastrous events such as earthquakes, fires, bombings and artillery barrage. In fact, the original two belfries of the church was destroyed in 1943 by American forces because of accidental bombing. Of the original 30 church bells it used in 1869, only 1 was left as of now. Today, the church stands as witness to numerous events which carved the history of Molo district.
The parish is also known as a "feminist church" because of the 16 images of female saints that adorn the main aisle.
I learned that since its construction, the Molo Church has faced a number of disastrous events such as earthquakes, fires, bombings and artillery barrage. In fact, the original two belfries of the church was destroyed in 1943 by American forces because of accidental bombing. Of the original 30 church bells it used in 1869, only 1 was left as of now. Today, the church stands as witness to numerous events which carved the history of Molo district.
Getting there:
From San Jose de Placer Church, I hopped on to a jeepney with signboard "Villa / Arevalo" and dropped off at San Pedro St. corner Locsin. The church sits between del Pilar and San Pedro streets.
3. San Joaquin Church
After visiting two churches in downtown Iloilo, I then took a 1-hour ride to the south then started off with the town of San Joaquin, the southernmost part of the province. This first class municipality is home to two cultural landmarks: San Joaquin Church and Campo Santo de San Joaquin. Built in 1869, the century-old church stands out from the others as its facade features a striking militaristic motif portraying Spanish soldiers fighting the Moroccan forces in the Battle of Tetuan.
Like churches in the southern part of Iloilo, San Joaquin Church is made from white coral stones and ground limestone, where the church owes its color. When I visited the church, there was a worker plastering white mortar, probably made with sand from the nearby beach, on the wall doing some kind of restoration works.
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| The intricately carved facade of the church depicts the Battle of Tetuan in Morocco in 1860 |
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| The statue of Our Lady of Sorrows atop the church |
Getting there:
From Jaro, I took a jeepney going to San Joaquin for a 1 hour journey then dropped off at Rizal Street. From here, I then walked 300 meters or so (instead of taking a tricycle) before reaching the town plaza where the church sits. I always prefer to take long walks as I get to meet locals and share some stories with them. Tourists can also take a side trip to Garin Farm owned by the local political clan Garin (Janet Garin, the secretary of health, came from this family) or visit the famous Campo Santo de San Joaquin, a Spanish-era cemetery.
4. Miag-ao Church
Miagao Church is perhaps the most iconic church in my itinerary. It is the only entry in my list that has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of only four in the Philippines. When I jumped off the jeepney, I felt a sudden rush of excitement as I saw the church in front of me, which I had only seen in magazines before. It was truly captivating.
The church of Santo Tomas de Villanueva (named after the 17th century Augustinian saint, Thomas of Villanova), otherwise known as Miag-ao church, was built in 1731 and was originally intended to function not only as a church but also as fortress against Moro raiders at that time. The most fascinating decoration of the Baroque-Romanesque church is its facade's bas relief depicting a local scenery during the Spanish period. I specially like the statue of St. Christopher holding on to a coconut tree while carrying the child Jesus.
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| A close-up of the church's bas relief. |
Getting there:
From San Joaquin, I rode a Ceres bus heading to Iloilo City and asked the conductor to drop me off in Miag-ao. If you are coming from Iloilo city proper, you can take the other way around. Just take a bus or a minibus plying the San Joaquin-Iloilo city route or better yet, the Miag-ao-Iloilo City route for direct disembarkment. The church is located just along the Iloilo-Antique highway and can be reached in a few steps from the road.
5. Guimbal Church
Bearing a slight resemblance to Miag-ao Church due to its color, the goldenrod St. Nicolas of Tolentino Parish Church, or the Guimbal Church, is one of the oldest in the country. The structure was built in 1774 under the leadership of Father Juan Campos using forced labor or folio. The materials used in building the church were unique to today's. Yellow sandstone was used to bind the bricks made from adobe stones, locally known as igang, and coral stones quarried from the neighbouring island of Guimaras. Combine all of these and what you get is a magnificent edifice.
Getting there:
En-route to Miag-ao from Iloilo City, you will pass by the town of Guimbal. The church can easily be seen across the huge town plaza.
6. Tigbauan Church
The church of San Juan Sahagun, or Tigbauan church, was built in 1575 and was devastated by an earthquake dubbed "Lady Caycay" in 1948. It left the church only with the façade, the bell tower and a few columns intact.
At first glance, I thought the church was ordinary but upon taking a closer look, and doing some research, I discovered a striking feature not found in most churches in the Philippines: its facade boasts of Mexican plateresque style, a style which blossomed in Latin America and is characterised by elaborate and sophisticated sculptural architectural ornaments. The arched entrance to the church is decorated with the emblem of the Augustinian order (a heart) and the statue of San Nicolas de Tolentino stands above it while the image of the child Jesus is situated below the pediment.
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| A close-up of the "Chirrugueresque" portal |
Apart from the unique architecture, I must say this church is among those with the most beautiful interior I have seen. Its altar is adorned by a magnificent mosaic depicting religious scenes and its walls are also flanked with the same artwork portraying 14 stations of the cross. I wonder how painstaking it was to put together these minute tiles to form beautiful works of art.
Getting there:
7. Jaro Cathedral
And to cap off my Iloilo heritage tour, I visited the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Jaro, the Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria Church (Our Lady of the Candles), popularly known as Jaro Cathedral situated in the similarly named district of Iloilo City. The sugar boom in Iloilo in 1860's and 70's brought a positive effect in the local economy and so a number of infrastructures, educational institutions and churches sprouted all throughout the city. One of these churches is Jaro Cathedral. The original church was built in 1874 and was destroyed by the 1948 earthquake, the same catastrophy that damaged the Tigbauan church, along with 14 other churches in the province.
The church has two stairs attached to its facade leading to the miraculous image of the patron saint enclosed in a glass. If the Molo church is flanked by female saints, the pillars of Jaro Cathedral are adorned with male saints. It is also interesting to note that the church's bell tower, declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute of the Philippines, is situated across the church, beside a busy street.
The church has two stairs attached to its facade leading to the miraculous image of the patron saint enclosed in a glass. If the Molo church is flanked by female saints, the pillars of Jaro Cathedral are adorned with male saints. It is also interesting to note that the church's bell tower, declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute of the Philippines, is situated across the church, beside a busy street.
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| The bell tower, right across the street. |
Getting there:
Ride a "Jaro CPU" or "Jaro Liko" jeepney and request to be dropped off at Jaro Plaza or in front of the cathedral. Several jeepneys ply this route coming from main roads all over the city. Jaro Cathedral sits between Burgos and Plaza Rizal Streets.
Afterthoughts
Here are other must-visit churches in Iloilo which I missed:
- St. William Church, Passi
- Sto. Niño de Arevalo Church, Arevalo
- St. Nicholas of Tolentino Church, Lambunao
- St. Jerome Parish, Dueñas
- San Carlos Borromeo Church, Santa Barbara
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| Santa Barbara Church |
If you are planning a trip this summer, be sure to include a spiritual component by visiting some of the beautiful churches in Iloilo. The Lenten season is a perfect time to do this, as it is a time for reflection and renewal.
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